THE SETTING

Porepunkah is in the Ovens Valley at the base of Mount Buffalo, ringed by the Victorian Alps. Lush with orchards, vineyards, hop gardens and pine forests, it's a region rich in natural beauty. First the gold rush then tobacco farming saw this high-country hamlet prosper. Clusters of the old corrugated iron tobacco kilns still dot the landscape, much like these at the Alpine Angus stud.

THE SPACE

This original 1960s kiln was painstakingly dismantled, rebuilt to retain its rustic authenticity and transformed into a lofty, light-filled living room clad in pale, washed ply. Picture windows frame roaming cattle, pasture and mountains and a hutong-style courtyard. What appears to be a corrugated iron shed alongside the kiln is the open-plan kitchen and dining. An L-shaped glass-walled hallway leads off to a galley-style laundry, ski-gear storage and garage, turning sharp left to access split king-bed sleeping quarters, separate shower room, bathroom and toilet, finishing up at the main king bedroom with its chic Le Corbusier cowhide chaise. Vine-fringed pergolas and a courtyard deck set with smart, weatherproof wicker furniture extend living spaces. Clean lines, natural timbers and a neutral palette create a sense of spaciousness and harmony, emphasising the scenic countryside.

THE KIT

Modern art and a mix of well-crafted Scandinavian-style timber furniture and mid-20th century modernist and Italian designer pieces add to the luxe aesthetic. If the kitchen's your domain, it's well set up with top-end matt-stainless appliances, cast-iron casseroles and tableware right down to cleaning products and cling film. Alternatively, cook al fresco on the handsome portable E2go barbecue. Entertainment's covered with piles of reading material, flat panel LCD TV, CD and DVD players, iPod dock and free Wi-Fi.

COMFORT FACTOR

Sunshade roller blinds and reverse-cycle airconditioning offer respite from summer scorchers and low-line louvres cool rooms naturally at night. During winter, the slow-combustion stove in the living room and heated polished concrete floors keep things cosy. From the supremely comfortable king bed, 400-thread-count cotton bed linen, textured tweed towels and Aesop bath products to plush throws, cushions and beautiful furniture, every piece has been curated with luxury and comfort in mind.

FOOD

Treat yourself to the kiln house's delicious regional brekkie package. Milawa Bakery sourdough, hand-churned Myrtleford butter, jam and honey from Bright Berry Farms, macadamia muesli, local milk and free-range farmhouse eggs will see you through the weekend. An Italian espresso machine with stacks of coffee pods and T2 teas, and top-notch pantry staples come gratis. Pit stop in Milawa for provisions if cooking is on your agenda.

WORTH STEPPING OUT FOR

After a soothing, candle-lit bath fragrant with Aesop, I amp up Ludovico Einaudi and lie on the day bed mesmerised by long-lashed grazing Angus girls. Bucolic bliss. If you're keen to step out, wander up to Boynton's Feathertop Winery for a crisp, award-winning savagnin. Bright is a 10-minute drive. Book in for Japanese-accented dining at Tani Eat & Drink, Good Food Guide's new regional restaurant of the year, or authentic Umbrian from the Simone family's long-time hatted cucina. Master pappardelle making at Patrizia Simone's cooking school. Or head for historic Beechworth instead.

THE VERDICT

A writer's haven, this architect-designed, high-country hideaway affords luxury, serenity and languid days in the Ovens Valley.

HOW TO GET THERE

Porepunkah is 320 kilometres north-east of Melbourne via the Hume Highway and the Great Alpine Road.

ESSENTIALS

Chinaman's Kilnhouse (one of three kiln retreats), Cavedons Lane, Porepunkah is $275 a night a couple midweek and $325 a night Friday to Sunday, public and school holidays, and an extra $50 a night a person (sleeps four). Add $20 a head for breakfast. Two-night minimum stay. Book online at kilnhouse.com.au.

The writer stayed as a guest of The Kilns, Tourism North East and partners.