The air temperature is a pleasant 26 degrees, the water Inkjet cyan, and the kids (blessedly) content. Nine-year-old Taj stands serenely with his moto saisai (a sharp spear) as his Fijian instructor peers into the swell for a whoosh of colour; Grace paints coconuts with her nanny and I spy green turtles from my paddleboard.

Suddenly, the silence is shattered by the call of the wild philotherian (that's "animal-lover" to you). "I'm sorry!" Taj says, handing back his spear. "But I don't want to murder the fish."

Of course, much like a dodgy politician he's happy to dine on the proceeds of crime, but doesn't want blood on his hands.

This piece of paradise is the first luxury boutique resort on the island of Viti Levu, about half an hour's drive from Fiji's capital, Suva. With direct flights from Sydney, and construction of a new marina at Pacific Harbour, this is the latest hot spot for Australian families.

The pitch, according to the resort's general manager, Karen Taylor, is "truly bespoke guest experiences, intertwined with Fijian culture", in a magical landscaped setting. And from the time we arrive to the dramatic blow of a davui shell, to our tear-stained goodbyes, we're welcome to do what we want, when we want, where we want.

As a family, this flexibility is priceless. So is the one-nanny-per-child for those under the age of six. There are also "buddies" for older kids. Our nanny, Miri, becomes part of the family, teaching the kids kari niu (making milk from a coconut), playing board games, and splashing in the plunge pool.

The days start with a fresh juice from fruit picked on the property, followed by an a la carte selection served in the Kanavata restaurant, or on the lawn of our villa overlooking Beqa Lagoon. The acclaimed French-Australian, Melbourne-based chef Jacques Reymond, who visited the resort last month, is advising on the menu, which has a "paddock-to-plate" philosophy.

"We will be using the beautiful farm produce that we discovered," he says, "such as fresh crab from the crab farm, fresh prawns from the prawn farm, citrus, ginger, vanilla and local spices from the spice farm [and] an exceptional hydroponic farm that supplies us with fresh herbs and salads."

Following in Reymond's footsteps we go on a food safari starting at the local markets, burgeoning with taro, duruka, okra, kava, and vudi (giant bananas). The tour finishes in a local village, where dozens of kids run to greet us. "It's a privilege to have a guest here, that's why they're so happy," explains our guide, Seru.

A conga-line of littlies trek through the rainforest to find the source of fresh prawns. It's all fun and games, until Taj sinks knee-deep in mud. "My favourite shoes!" he cries, a mini Imelda Marcos. Then we spot a woman, crouching in a creek, net in hand, ready to nab the crustaceans.

Back at the resort, Seru stuffs the prawns, garlic, ginger, onion and banana leaves into a bamboo tube, before making a fire from coconut husks. We eat the result for lunch: fresh, tender, and delicious. (Despite Taj wailing about the "poor dead prawnies!")

In a desperate - and ultimately failed - bid to shed the extra kilos, I go bush bashing on a mountain bike, while hubby works out in the state-of-the-art gym with Mr Fiji.

And, really, I am not making this up: Sefa is actually the national bodybuilding champion. "That guy is huge," a sweat-streaked Jason remarks after staggering out.

While there are activities aplenty, the best times are back at the bures. Our expansive grand villa has a four poster king bed, double bathroom with funky rock sinks, indoor and outdoor rain showers, and spa bath filled with warm water, bubbles, and rose petals every night.

The kids are in a neighbouring, double-storey villa, with king and single beds upstairs and a full kitchen, dining table and lounge downstairs. The House Mama, Anni, shows us a cinema room in the compound, with the latest DVDs and video games.

After a week, we feel like we've been away for a month. Our eight-year-old daughter, Grace, still asks about Miri, while our nine-year-old son wants to go and live there (since recovering from the fish-murdering). This is the new face of high-end family travel in Fiji. It's a sad sota tale ("meet you again"), Nanuku, as we move on to the Sofitel Fiji Resort & Spa, Denarau where the 16 luxury family rooms have been refreshed. While the rooms are small, they spill out onto the large lawn and beach.

What's lost in space is found in bonhomie. The kids make fast friends in the lagoon pool, down the waterslide, and on the trampoline offshore. The Turtle Club features the usual range of activities, from fish feeding to T-shirt painting and sack racing, aimed at under-eights.

But problems occur when the weather's inclement.

Sure, the rooms have a curtained alcove, crammed with bunk beds and a PlayStation 3. But it's costly to hire the games and movies. And a family of four would feel hemmed in after a couple of days. Better value is found outside the resort. It's five minutes' walk to the world's largest inflatable water park, Big Bula. Soon, we're on an episode of Survivor, tackling an obstacle course with a waterslide at the end. The adults are having as much fun as the kids, riding the mechanical surfboard and smashing each other with blow-up bats.

However, the highlight is the Flavours of Fiji cooking class, held in a converted warehouse near Big Bula. It begins with an explanation of the division of labour in the Fijian household: the women do the cooking; the men are served first.

"But the men need to remember, in the kitchen, we are the ones with the knives!" one of our instructors, Ethee, says, laughing.

Each station has a double burner and sharp knives, but there's enough staff to make sure the kids are safe. In Grace's words, "It's excellent for kids because you can get help cooking and using the stove".

We're taught how to make six dishes, including ika vakalolo (fish in coconut cream), murghi and aalu curry (chicken and potato curry) and roti from scratch. Then, we feast on the result. As Taj says, "I'm not that much of a cook but I like eating it at the end".

This is a must-do, if you're staying at Denarau. Also, check out Nadina, the traditional Fijian restaurant at the marina It's nice to see a diversification of experiences for families in Fiji. Now I can honestly say it's a destination with something for everyone.

The writer travelled as a guest of Tourism Fiji, Nanuku Resort & Spa and Sofitel Fiji Resort & Spa.

FIVE MORE NEW THINGS IN FIJI

BURE PLEASURE

The Sheraton Fiji Resort & Spa on Tokoriki Island, in the Mamanucas, has just opened. It boasts 101 bures, rooms and suites, a day spa, and three dining venues. See sheratonfiji.com.

GRAND OPENING

After being closed for more than 20 years, The Grand Pacific Hotel has reopened, marking the 100th anniversary of its construction. It's one of the best examples of colonial architecture in the Suva region. See grandpacifichotel.com.fj.

FIT FOR A PRINCESS

Fiji's Blue Lagoon Cruises flagship vessel, the 68-berth Fiji Princess, is back in the water after a $FJ1.2 million ($700,000) refurbishment. There are three- to seven-day itineraries through the Yasawa Islands. See bluelagooncruises.com.

SIGHTS UNSEEN

Captain Cook Cruises Fiji has launched a new 11-night Lau cruise to parts of Fiji rarely seen by tourists, including the coral atoll of Wailagilala and waterfalls at Tavena. See captaincook.com.au.

GIVE IT A WHIRL

Sigatoka River Safari has partnered with Heli Tours Fiji to offer two adventure Heli-Safari Combo packages, with either a 15-minute or half-hour flight. See sigatokariver.com.

TRIP NOTES

GETTING THERE

Fiji Airways now flies twice a week direct from Sydney to Suva, as well as 15 times a week to Nadi. See fijiairways.com.

STAYING THERE

Stay five nights, pay for four at Nanuku Resort & Spa, inclusive of all meals plus extras in a two-bedroom duplex villa with private plunge pool, for $7190, including during school holidays. See nanukufiji.com.

Book a five to seven-night stay during winter and save 30 per vent at the Sofitel Fiji Resort & Spa. A luxury family room is $2470 for seven nights. See sofitel.com/Fiji-Denarau.

MORE INFORMATION

fiji.travel.