Nothing good ever comes from paper underpants. The first time I encountered a pair (in a rather posh day spa) I put them on my head, thinking they were a shower-cap. To her credit the masseuse didn't blink an eye, even when confronted with my unruly mop sticking out of the leg holes. The second time, while getting a spray tan, I nervously pulled the paper G-string so high it snapped like an elastic band almost taking out the beautician's eye.
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Fast-forward a couple of decades and I discover, within the fashionable walls of London's Victoria & Albert Museum, another use for these less than fancy pants - as disposable travel undies. "You should get some for your hand luggage," quips my companion, pointing to the glass cabinet showcasing 'Chukkas' - throwaway briefs from 1969.
This is my introduction to the exhibition Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear. Celebrating the weird and wonderful world of underwear from the 1750s to today exhibits include Queen Victoria's mother's knickers, a Swarovski crystal-studded bra and thong, and my personal favourite, a pair of 'butt-lifters' designed to give the ultimate Kim Kardashian derriere. As the exhibition demonstrates, fashion and underwear are intimately linked, with their fit and fabric reflecting society's attitudes towards sex, gender and class.
My first surprise is learning that it wasn't until the early 19th century that women began to wear any underpants at all, thanks in part to the availability of new fabrics and the tight silhouettes demanded by the fashion of the time. The royal pair on display (dare I say Victoria's secrets) worn by Princess Victoria, Duchess of Kent (1786-1861) has an open crotch and deep back-lacing waistband. It is believed she wore them while pregnant with the future monarch.
Men's unmentionables also make a brief appearance including 18th-century shirts, which were categorised as underwear because they were worn next to the skin. With its rather long tail, tucked between the man's legs like a nappy and covered by 'breech liners', the Georgian man was effectively wearing two pants, while his female counterpart was happy to go commando. Rules were strict - showing off the sleeves was considered risqué, but a bit of stiff collar or coifed cuff was perfectly acceptable. Bums of note include a corset-wearing George IV, David Beckham boxer shorts and finally aussieBum, pants for men designed to 'lift and enhance' the genitals.
Lifting and enhancing of another kind is explored on the first floor, where the history of the bra is outlined, showcasing 'bust extenders' from 1910, a Peter Pan Hidden Treasure bra from 1950 (with its four-section padded cups), maternity bras, sports bars and bras for those who have undergone a mastectomy.
The secret world of women's corsetry, crinolines and bustles is beautifully explored, from a hip-enhancing 'New Phantom' collapsible bustle from 1887 to a vivid pink silk corset, trimmed in black lace from the 1890s, both demonstrating that women have long sought the 'ideal' (and often unrealistic) body shape.
Overtly erotic pieces include a flocked tulle playsuit by French lingerie designer Fifi Chachnil, a black lace bedroom set from Agent Provocateur's Soiree Collection, and a 'Shibari' girdle dress made especially for the exhibition by London-based atelier Bordelle, which references an artistic form of Japanese erotic bondage.
Pants, as I learn, can also be political, with messages incorporated into designs, such as the Toile de Jouy style print on loungewear created by fashion house Sibling for its spring/summer 2013 collection. What at first glance looks like pyjamas emblazoned with a repeating blue and white design, are in fact images derived from the 2011 London riots.
Gender is explored by the inclusion of Acne Studios' gender-neutral briefs from 2015 and issues of sustainability are raised by a set of tutti-frutti-coloured underpants. Embroidered with days of the week, the knickers were created by 'cheekfrills', a company known for its commitment to the environment. But somehow the message misses the mark; instead of thinking about saving trees I fixate on the horror of wearing the wrong pants on the wrong day. Too much pressure for this pedant.
Someone who didn't give too much thought to her underwear was Kate Moss, the super-confident, supermodel known for wearing the transparent Liza Bruce dress to a party in 1993, revealing a pair of low-slung black bikini knickers, bare boobs and little else. Fashionistas will recognise a Trompe l'oeil corset dress designed by Antonio Berardi (spring/summer 2009) worn by Gwyneth Paltrow at a red carpet event in Paris, an Ellie Saab 'lingerie dress' worn by actress Mila Kunis and a wicker dress designed by Dolce & Gabbana.
Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear, celebrates the evolution of underwear, but more than that, it causes us to question our own feelings about body image, nudity, sexuality… and the scars from paper pants.
TRIP NOTES
MORE INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
Emirates operates daily flights to London Heathrow from Sydney and Melbourne via Dubai. emirates.com
STAYING THERE
Dukes London is a luxury property set in a quiet courtyard in upmarket Mayfair, a three minutes' walk to Green Park tube station. Standard rooms start from £325. See dukeshotel.com
SEE + DO
The exhibition takes place in the Fashion Gallery of the Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) from 16 April, 2016 – 12 March, 2017. The gallery is open daily from 1000-1745 and until 2200 every Friday. While general museum admission is free, entry to Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear costs £12. See vam.ac.uk
The writer was a guest of VisitBritain and Dukes London
