Novotel Yangon Max, Yangon, Myanmar

THE LOCATION

It's a great time to visit Myanmar, a country that has opened up to the world after 50 years of military rule. The tourism sector is still developing and you won't find yourself rubbing shoulders with too many travellers in cargo pants. This modern hotel rises above the hustle and bustle of the former capital of Myanmar. The hotel is a 20-minute drive from Yangon International airport, and a short taxi ride from the central business district. Many of the rooms boast views of the Shwedagon Pagoda – the country's most sacred Buddhist pagoda.

THE SPACE

Contemporary, elegant and bright. Think modernist furniture, geometric carpets and warm earthy tones. The five-star hotel opened its glass doors to guests in 2014, becoming the first international hotel to open in Myanmar in 17 years. It has become a popular venue for young lovers, with up to four weddings taking place beneath the chandeliers in its ballroom every day. It also attracts a steady stream of tourists who want to explore this emerging democracy. There's a fitness centre, spa, tennis courts and an outdoor pool, deck and bar.

THE ROOM

I feel like I've broken into a Toorak mansion. This is a luxury I've never experienced before. After a night in the already lavish and spacious executive suite I am upgraded to the exclusive presidential suite – a sprawling space with the best views in town. There's a kitchen with a large fridge stocked with drinks, a bar, office and huge lounge and dining area with rock star chandeliers and a mirrored roof.The suite is so large that I get lost a few times trying to find the walk-in wardrobe. The sunny bathroom is a highlight. It includes a walk-in shower, orchids and a spa overlooking the Yangon skyline. The perfect place to unwind with a glass of bubbly after a long day of sightseeing.

THE FOOD

The hotel has four bars and three restaurants that serve international, Chinese and French cuisine. The famous mohinga – a hot and sour fish-and-noodle soup – is a must-try for breakfast and is prepared in front of your eyes at the buffet. For dinner, I devoured a refreshing sea bass carpaccio marinated in lemon and a tomato tart tartin with notes of lavender and a surprisingly delicious olive oil ice cream at the Le Cellier Wine Bar & Restaurant. For my main, I order honey-roasted duck breast on a wild mushroom polenta. It is a deeply satisfying, delicious meal and the service is impeccable.

STEPPING OUT

Step outside this gleaming establishment and you'll find stalls selling sugarcane juice and betel nuts that will stain your teeth red. Men in singlets sit at outdoor bars selling longnecks of Myanmar lager. The Yangon Max is close to many tourist attractions including the famous Shwedagon Pagoda, which is a 10-minute drive away. Buddhism's most sacred site is visible for kilometres and blinds visitors with its opulence. My tour guide Robert, from Diethelm Travel, tells me that the pagoda is made out of 60 tonnes of gold leaf. We visit it at dusk, as the last rays of sun illuminate the golden stupa. I stock up on very affordable souvenirs and gifts at the Bogyoke Market, including an Aung San Suu Kyi T-shirt.

THE VERDICT

A memorable and luxurious experience. The hotel has a sophisticated yet relaxed vibe – it doesn't feel too stuffy or sterile. The food is top notch, the staff are warm and helpful and it's in a convenient location. Small details like the platters of tropical fruit left for guests in their rooms, and the recycled soap made by children at a nearby orphanage and sold at reception, create a warmth that is sometimes absent in big hotels.

Henrietta Cook was a guest of Accor Hotels, Novotel Yangon Max, Scoot and Tigerair.

HIGHLIGHT

The staff, who are always smiling, go out of their way to make conversation.

LOWLIGHT

I would have liked to spend more time in the presidential suite.

Our rating 4.5 out of 5

TripAdvisor traveller rating 4.5 out of 5