Its wall contains more than 800 roses, each one dedicated to a worker who died on a dangerous job, and each accompanied by a brief, stark description of how they met their death: “rock fall” is quite common, but there were plenty of other ways for a miner to meet his end, such as “crushed by crane”, “toxic fumes” and “suffocated, underground fire”.

Broken Hill was the first Australian city to be included as a whole on the National Heritage List, and you just have to walk the three central blocks of Argent Street, between Bromide Street and Oxide Street, to see some of the country’s finest architecture.

The 1890 Broken Hill Courthouse is an obvious highlight, but there are plenty of other buildings to admire — the old Town Hall, now just a facade but with foundation stone laid by Sir Henry Parkes; the Post Office; and numerous pubs, with place of honour going to the Palace Hotel (see below).

The strength of organised labour in Broken Hill is also in evidence here, especially in the form of a memorial erected in 2000 by the mining unions of the city and “dedicated to the women of Broken Hill who have stood by their men during troubled industrial times”. Yes, mining has traditionally been a man’s occupation in the Hill.

Much can be experienced on a two- or three-hour tour of Broken Hill.

I took one run by Silver City Tours. Tour leader Chris Barrett (pictured) had himself been a miner and was only too willing to share his passion and experience.

I’m sure there was a lump in his throat — I know there was in mine — as he guided us through the Miners Memorial, where he counted a few of the names on the wall as being among his friends.

Indeed, all of Silver City Tours’ drivers have worked in the mines and two have lost fathers in accidents there. You can hardly get more personally involved than that.

The Palace Hotel gained its greatest fame as the setting for many of the scenes in the cult movie Priscilla Queen of the Desert — and as the place where many of the main actors stayed while filming around Broken Hill.

You can dine on the iron-lace-festooned balcony overlooking some of Argent Street’s magnificent architecture, and on Friday nights legally indulge in that classic Australian betting activity, two-up, in the country’s only licensed venue. You can even book accommodation in a Priscilla Suite. 

The Red Earth Motel, just on the edge of the CBD in Argent Street, is one of Broken Hill’s newest and some would contend best equipped accommodation venues.

Its fittings are absolutely first rate and the lighting is spot on (unlike in most motels). Each spacious apartment has a fully functional kitchen, the air-conditioning absolutely necessary in the semi-desert, wireless internet access and Foxtel.

Silverton, about 25 kilometres north-west of Broken Hill, has seen many renowned actors grace its streets in the setting for movies and mini-series such as Razorback, Reckless Kelly, The Long Way Home and Wake in Fright — and, of course, Mad Max 2, the film that has probably given the town its greatest fame.

These days there’s even a Mad Max 2 Museum, but that’s far from being the town’s only attraction.

I loved having a beer and lunch at the Silverton Hotel, which Peter and Patsy Price have been running for the past six years.

The food’s good and great value, the atmosphere is very country-pub and there’s heaps of memorabilia. Call in and have a long, friendly chat with some great characters.

The late Pro Hart was arguably Australia’s pre-eminent Outback artist and many of his works and influences still survive in his eponymously named gallery in Broken Hill.

It’s also worth stopping by his grave in Broken Hill Cemetery to marvel at the huge slab of stone and the hallmark dragonfly that commemorate his final resting place.

John Rozentals is a freelance writer whose passions are travel, food and wine. He lives at Molong in the Central West of NSW, from where he hosts Oz Baby Boomers, a lifestyle-resource for mature Australians, and Molong Online.